By STEVE EIGHINGER
Herald-Whig Staff Writer

ALEXANDRIA, Mo. -- Bill Stevenson is part of the gang that gathers every morning at Bob Land's, where the unofficial pulse of the community can be found.

If you need to know something about Alexandria, stop at Bob Land's, a combination convenience store, coffee shop, gas station and fireworks outlet.

The people are friendly, and the conversation always rich.

Stevenson was talking Thursday about how he moved from Alexandria after the infamous flood of 1993, but he didn't go far, just about six miles west to Wayland. Stevenson, 72, lost his home in the '93 disaster, but not his love for this area.

"Once a swamp rat, always a swamp rat," he said. "I come here every morning. I have no desire to go anywhere else. There are a lot of friends here."

Stevenson and most others in the Northeast Missouri town tend to downplay the recent flood, which left "only" about two feet of Mississippi River water covering most of Alexandria's roads and many of its properties. Fifteen years ago, Alexandria was submerged in an Atlantis-like 17 feet of water.

For the most part, the townspeople are settling back into their daily lives while working on cleaning up their yards and homes.

It could have been worse, and they all seem to know it. Isolated pools of water are scattered about town. Most of the ditches should be avoided, either because of standing water or soft muck and debris.

"Everyone just seems excited about getting back into a routine," said Tina Dunlap, a clerk at Bob Land's. "It was pretty depressing around here for a while."

The town's sense of humor is returning, too. Several creative signs dot the countryside, including "House For Sale. Lakefront Property" and "No Wake Zone."

There was not much chuckling a few weeks ago, however, when Mayor Bob Davis ordered an evacuation that scattered the town's 200-plus residents near and far.

"Our family of five lived in a camper," said Brian Dunlap, Tina's husband, who also attends most of the morning gab sessions at Bob Land's.

The Dunlaps' home was spared any major damage. "There was water all around it, but none in it," Brian Dunlap said.

Only a handful of homes appears to have taken in any significant water, other than in basements. Most of the water damage was confined to outdoor properties, such as yards, gardens and other areas with vegetative cover.

Carver Long sounded the one negative vibe heard Thursday when discussing post-flood Alexandria.

"I think a lot of people may be movin' out, maybe three or four families," Long said. "The same thing happened in '93."

Brian Dunlap isn't so sure.

"Just rumors," he said.

Long is a fun-loving -- and hardworking -- character. He was one of the chief sandbaggers who helped protect the Alexandria levee. He also has gained a reputation for working his way onto television while Davis was being interviewed by TV crews that came to Alexandria to report on the flood.

"Yeah, Carver would grab a couple of sandbags and go stand behind (Mayor Davis) when he would be talking on television," Stevenson said.

Another sure sign life is returning to normal in Alexandria is how much fishing talk is dominating most conversations.

Bob Dunlap, Brian's father, is regarded by some people as the finest angler in the area. He speaks fondly of his favorite spot up near Montrose, Iowa, and will answer any and all questions dealing with how to best catch those channel cats.

"The only thing the (recent) flood hurt as far as fishing is concerned is they wouldn't let us on the river," he said.

About a week ago, the fishermen were allowed to return to their favorite river spots.

"The flood of '93 was the best fishin' we ever had," Long added.

In many respects, Alexandria missed much of the major damage that lies to the south.

Davis said that is "probably the first time that has ever happened -- we usually get it first."

Hundreds and hundreds of acres of what used to be prime corn, soybean and wheat fields have been stripped bare by the receding floodwaters. The barren lands give off a strange, post-apocalyptic sense of scorched earth.

About halfway between Canton and Wayland on U.S. 61, a massive Missouri Department of Transportation operation is under way removing a man-made levee that had protected the highway from the swelling river.

At least 16 pieces of heavy machinery and hauling trucks were involved with the project, which reduced U.S. 61 to one lane for about a quarter-mile, causing some lengthy delays for motorists.

Work also continued in flood-battered LaGrange, where residents and business owners were busy stripping buildings and beginning the first stages of a lengthy cleaning and sanitizing process.

Piles of ruined carpet, furniture, and other household and business accessories lined both sides of most streets in and around downtown LaGrange.

A sure sign of recovery in LaGrange, however, was the parking lot at Terrible's Mark Twain Casino on the south end of town. Business appeared to be back to the pre-flood stage, although most of the casino's landscaping is either gone or covered in a brown residue.

--seighinger@whig.com/221-3377